Laos 1989

“You must be joking. No one can get into a communist country at a week’s notice. You want me to go to Laos, collect information and be back in a fortnight. The last time I went into Hanoi it took me four months to get in.” I told John Hayman.

          He told me that MAF International was one of seven companies short-listed by the Asian Development Bank for a study of the Lao national extension services. Would I collect the background information to help them win the contract. 

          The first thing I had to do was to get a visa to enter Laos. That could only be done from Canberra so I needed to send my passport to Australia. My problem was how do I get into Australia without my passport.

          I remembered  I had an a British passport, one I had gained when our children were seeking work in England, but had never used it before.

          I walked to the Australian High Commission and asked for an Australian visa.  “Come back in a week,” said the receptionist. “I am supposed to be in Laos next week “, I pleaded.

          I told her my story and was told to come back in half an hour.

          I flew to Sydney with some apprehension but much to my relief my visa arrived at my hotel in time for me to fly to Bangkok, my stepping-off point to Vientiane.

          I had several days to wait for the next plane in Bangkok.  

          While waiting I visited some of my old haunts to seek information on Laos.

          I first visited the UN Food and Agriculture library. But that proved useless. I next visited Sandy Stevens at FAO and as usual, she was a font of information.

          My network of former colleagues arranged for another ex-colleague to visit me.

           Prathana Kongsupto, called and I found out he had been working with a company in Laos. He was a mass of information and offered to make contacts for me.

          Shortly after I arrived at in Vientiane I had a phone call from Dr. Somchith Philathivong, the Managing Director of Societe Lao Internationale setting up an appointment for me.

          His office was within walking distance so on the way I called the Thai Airway Office to reconfirm my return flight.

          To my horror, I found the butt of my return ticket was missing. It had been ripped out when I was boarding in Bangkok.

           No they didn’t have a computer link. The only thing I could do was to buy a new ticket and I may have to wait several weeks to get a seat. Not a good start!

          However, the Societe Lao Internationale was marvelous. I couldn’t have asked for a better service. They had all the contacts, arranged all my appointments for me, and even supplied me with my own interpreter, a Finnish medical doctor, Henrik Forss.

          I enjoyed his company. He even put on a party for me one evening.  

          The main person I wanted to see was Kikham Vongsay, Vice-Minister of Economy, Planning, and Finance.

          It just so happened he was Dr. Philathivongs, cousin. He was on holiday but an appointment was made for me to see him.

          He organized a three-hour appointment with the FAO Representative. He told me government staff had not been paid for nine months. They all needed to make money in other ways.

          Prior to departing I showed my papers at the information desk at the airport and asked if I need a permit to exit Lao. I was told I didn’t need one.

          Because there was shortage of taxis, Henrik took me to the airport and decided to wait around to make sure I got a seat.

          I was fortunate he saw the soldiers march me away when my papers were examined at the reception desk. My crime was a visa violation. My visa was for forty-eight hours and I had stayed five days. It was written in Lao, which I couldn’t read anyway.

          Henrik forced his way into the interview room and after a lengthy appeal on my behalf, we settled for a fine in US dollars.

          On the way back to the departure zone Henrik whispered to me, “Go to the toilet when you get into the waiting room. You will find a door next to it. It opens up to a bar upstairs. Come on up I will have a cold beer waiting for you.”

          In the bar Henrik confirmed that the Societe Lao was keen to supply us with support services should we get the contract. I am sure they could have done a great job for us.

          “If your country really wants that contract from the Asian Development Bank, when you get home send a telex to this number.”, he said slipping me a piece of paper. “Tell us how much ‘administrative fees’ you are prepared to pay. We will see the correct officials get their share after you get the contract – that’s how the Thais will do it,  they know the rules.”

          Believe it or not, I made the deadline I delivered my report within the two weeks –  much to my surprise.

          Did we get the contract?

          No! We were told we did not succeed because none of our team spoke Lao.

          New Zealanders are  not comfortable with bribes even though it is the accepted business practice for many Asian and Pacific countries.

Geoffrey Moss(mossassociates,co,nz)

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